• Superior anti-wear additives lubricate and prevent wear.
• Synergistic corrosion inhibitors protect against rust and corrosion.
• Advanced extreme pressure additive package handles high carrying and shock loads.

Surfaces to which Rust Reconverter LT is to be applied should meet WJ-4 visual condition of surface cleanliness such that that all loose rust, loose mil scale and loose coatings are uniformly removed. Appropriate Standard Surface Preparation would include

Hand Tool Cleaning SSPC-SP2 (SSI-St3):
A mechanical method of surface preparation involving wire brushing, scraping, chipping and sanding. Not the most desirable method of surface preparation, but can be used for mild exposure conditions. Optimum performances of protective coatings should not be expected when hand tool cleaning is employed.

Power Tool Cleaning SSPC-SP3 (SSI-St3):
A mechanical method of surface preparation widely used in industry and involving the use of power sanders or wire brushes, power chipping hammers, abrasive grinding wheels, needle guns etc. Although usually more effective than hand tool cleaning, it is not considered adequate for use under severe exposure conditions or for immersion applications.

Rust Reconverter LT will work on all rusted ferrous metal surfaces. While no specific surface profiles are required, an optimum surface profile will be one which provides mechanical adhesion in addition to the chemical bonding on converted surfaces.

Rust Reconverter LT requires no specific non-visual condition of surface cleanliness. Surfaces should be clean, free of loose rust, oils and dirt. Surfaces should be rinsed with fresh water prior to application.

Rust Reconverter LT should be applied at the rate of 300 to 500 sq. ft. per gallon. It can be applied by brushing, dipping, swabbing or spraying product evenly over the rusted surface. As the surface profile increases, product coverage will decrease. Rust Reconverter LT can be applied using equipment designed to spray latex paint. As necessary, Rust Reconverter LT can be thinned with up to 3 fluid ounces of water per gallon. Typical wet film thickness is 4-6 mils (1/1000th of an inch) 100-150 microns per coat resulting in a dry film thickness of 2-3 mils or 50-75 microns per coat.

Rust Reconverter LT should not be applied to wet surfaces and dry time will vary depending on the air and surface temperature and humidity. Rust Reconverter LT should not be applied to surfaces with temperatures less than 60°F, when the air temperature is less than 70°F and at humidity greater than 70%. Rust Reconverter LT should be allowed to dry completely (4 to 8 hours) prior to exposing to rain, dew or high humidity. A clear hard finish will form. Surfaces may be painted once completely dried.

Dry time will vary depending on the temperature and humidity. Each coat of Rust Reconverter LT should be allowed to dry completely prior recoating or top coating.

Rust Reconverter LT should not be applied to wet surfaces. Rust Reconverter LT must be allowed to dry completely prior to exposing to rain or high humidity. Do not apply when the uncured coating can be exposed to rain, dew or high humidity.

Rust Reconverter LT should not be applied to surfaces with temperatures less than 60oF, when the air temperature is less than 70oF and at humidity greater than 70%.

Depending on the environment, surface preparation and product application, when used indoors, the coating can last for years even without painting. When used outdoors or in high humidity applications, it should be painted over using an oil-based enamel or epoxy paint. The life of an application that is top-coated with an industrial enamel or epoxy paint is dependent on the environment, surface preparation, product application, type and number of coats of the chosen top-coat.

Oh my gosh; why would you? While RejeX can certainly be applied over wax and give you the benefits of enhanced gloss, superior protection for your paint and rejection of stains (bug splats, exhaust deposits, belly grime, etc.), it’s better to put RejeX right on top of the paint.

Waxes are softer, less durable films than RejeX. RejeX, when put on top of wax is dependent on the wax holding up and it will degrade long before the RejeX. When the wax “dies”, the RejeX bonded to the wax will come off. RejeX, when bonded to paint will out shine, out last and out repel wax so why not harness the full potential of the RejeX coating? Get maximum results; use RejeX instead of wax.

You have to see it to believe it. You bet there is added benefit to applying a second coat. It is important however to ensure RejeX cures fully before apply subsequent coats. A second coat will deepen the luster and provide more protection. There is however a point of diminishing returns - after about 2-3 coats you’ve gotten all the gloss and protection RejeX can deliver.

The RejeX film is very thin (less than a micron), so a little goes a very long way. For one coat, a 16 fl oz bottle should cover:

• A single engine airplane tip to tail
• One 25’ boat or RV
• 2 SUVs or sedans
• 3 economy or sports cars

Yes, while the Diamond Plate shield is very good for protecting paint from small rocks and other particles that can chip paint, it is quite difficult to clean bugs (and other contaminants) off it. Customers swear by RejeX’s super-slick formula for making cleanup easier and for keeping their RVs looking great.

Longevity varies depending on surface preparation, product application and environmental conditions. For best results, attention should be paid to:

• Surface preparation - surfaces should be cleaned of surface grime, stains and oxidation and dried completely
• Surface condition – surfaces should be dry, out of direct sunlight and optimally less than 85oF
• Cure time - RejeX should be allowed an initial 10-15 minute cure prior to wiping the haze and an additional 8-12 hour cure to final hardness
• Storage conditions – vehicles and aircraft stored indoors (garages, hangars) will remain protected longer than those stored in outdoor, adverse conditions.
• Maintenance operations – Washing frequency, washing method and cleaner used
• Operating conditions – What kind of contaminants is the vehicle exposed to? The more challenging the environment (hail, snow, ice, sand, “love bugs”, etc.); the more frequent RejeX may need to be applied.

Generally, RejeX lasts between 6 and 8 months, although we have numerous reports from customers who say it has lasted over a year. High abrasion areas, like leading edges airplane wings, require more frequent application – perhaps every 3-4 months.

RejeX is an air-cured sealant and reaches full cure in about 12 hours. The longer it cures, the stronger the finish. Prior to full cure, the film is softer and less protective and longevity can be compromised. Don’t worry if the sealant gets a little wet while it’s curing (e.g. a light sprinkle or dew), that will not be a problem. Do avoid heavy rain, parking the vehicle under a tree where the sap will get on it and driving long distances where exhaust and road grime will get on it. Regardless, RejeX cured even just an hour or two will significantly outlast waxes and inferior polymer coatings.

No, RejeX is not a cleaner. It is important to get your vehicle as clean as possible prior to application. RejeX leaves an incredibly durable protective barrier, but it will seal in stains just as effectively as it seals them out.

RejeX sealed vehicles are armored with a tough polymer film coating that’s so non-porous and slick that most contaminants can’t penetrate or stick to it. Black streaks, bug splats, tree sap, exhaust deposits, bird droppings and other harmful contaminants won’t penetrate RejeX. So, while the black streaks may collect on your RV, they can’t penetrate the sealant to damage the paint. While it won’t keep them off, cleaning RejeX’ed RVs is just that quick and easy. Like most soils, black marks will rinse off under a garden hose or wipe off with a wet rag.

RejeX sealed vehicles are armored with a tough polymer film coating that’s so non-porous and slick that most contaminants can’t penetrate or stick to it. Hard water deposits (calcium and magnesium salts) and water spots will be greatly reduced and generally wipe right off.

RejeX, when used on the front and/or leading edges provides great protection and makes clean-up, especially of bug splats, easier. To make bug removal easy, some people start using RejeX on the front of their cars and RVs, and on the leading edges of aircraft. However, once they appreciate the protections afforded by RejeX and see the deep, reflective finish, they can’t resist doing the whole vehicle.

By “out of the elements” we mean to avoid direct sunlight that could heat the application surface excessively. Don’t apply RejeX when there’s a probability of imminent rain. Don’t park the vehicle under a tree where sap can drip on it. In short, RejeX is usually applied outdoors. But it’s important to select a good day and apply RejeX in an area where it’s not likely to get stains on it until it has had the chance to cure for at least several hours.

Although freezing / repeated freezing is certainly not recommended, cold has not demonstrated to be a serious issue. If RejeX should freeze, allow it to thaw naturally to room temperature, then shake thoroughly to recombine. As long as the product looks like a smooth, homogenous, cream, it’s fine to use.

Storing RejeX in high heat, especially for longer periods of time, is a more serious issue. High heat, such as keeping RejeX in the trunk of your car or in a galvanized steel airplane hanger over a hot summer, can prematurely spoil RejeX. Storing in a detached garage would not be ideal for RejeX, or any (wax or non-wax) product of this type.